Oh Lord, have Mersea: The Island in the streams by way of Essex
An island that cuts itself off from the mainland twice a day Mersea Island, sitting off the Essex coast about an hour and a half from London, is connected to the mainland by a single road – the Strood – a narrow causeway that the sea swallows whole twice a day. Get your timing wrong and you’re either stuck on the island or stranded on the wrong side of it. High tide doesn’t linger too long, though, and once you’re island-side you can take advantage of the abundance of seafood, island walks and all that fresh sea air.The island splits roughly into two: West Mersea, where most people live, eat, drink and park their wellies; and East Mersea, which is wilder, emptier, and largely inaccessible – a tangle of salt marsh, mudflat and bird-thick skies. We recently spent 48 hours as an islander and here’s our top recs…Where to WanderGiven how close it sits to London, it’s surprising that walking around East Mersea still feels so remote. Even on a sunny weekend we saw only two other people making the full loop. It’s a 13-mile (21km) coastal trail and once you’re East-side there’s nothing but fields, sheep and the sea, so be sure to take water. If the full loop feels like too much, the West-side beach is an easier reward: potter along the shore past rows of multi-coloured beach huts that will, should you ever fancy buying one, set you back considerably more than they look.Where to EatThe Company ShedBuilt around a former oyster purification shed dating back to 1876 and still run by the Haward family, The Company Shed has been a Mersea institution for over forty years. The formula hasn’t changed much: fresh seafood, plastic tablecloths, no frills; though unlike the old days you’ll now need to book by email. Bring your own bread, and if you want wine, the shed pours a few whites from the Mersea Island Vineyard. The native oysters, available September through April, are by all accounts extraordinary. If you can’t make it to the island, you’ll find them at Borough Market too.The Dukes SeafoodThe Dukes is a family-run fish and shellfish shop sitting right on the edge of the estuary, with waterside benches and an onsite fishmonger. The menu runs from cold dressed crab and oysters through to freshly cooked hot dishes; we loved the scallop and bacon bun, and the oysters, which come straight up or baked. Order at the counter, find a bench with a view of the water, and repeat after us: Oh we do like to be beside the seaside.Mersea Island Fish BarThere’s only one proper fish and chip shop on the island, and honestly, one is all you need. The Mersea Island Fish Bar on the High Street keeps it simple: lightly battered fish and golden chips cooked to order. Get the curry sauce too. They also run a dedicated gluten-free fryer, which for a place this size is a nice touch. Take them to the beach and crack open a local Mersea Island Beer. Arthur Cock & SonArthur Cock & Son has been on the island since the 19th century, and long may it continue. It’s on Yorick Road in West Mersea and it’s exactly what a proper butcher should be: good local meat, great service, and pies that people travel for. If you’re self-catering, make it your first stop before you unpack.Mersea Island Vineyard & BreweryBought by Roger and Jacqui Barber in 1997, this island vineyard is now a proper destination, with a café, brewery, shop, B&B, and event spaces alongside the vines. The brewery produces cask ales and hosts its own four-day Easter beer festival. It sits out on the East Mersea side, making it a natural end point after the coastal walk – the café and a glass of something cold are very well earned by then.Where to StayThe White Heart, MerseaThe White Hart Inn opened in 2022 and has quietly become the best reason to stay on the island rather than just day-trip it. Sitting right in the heart of West Mersea, it’s a pub, restaurant and six-room hotel with a kitchen headed up by Essex-born chef Ed Campbell, whose CV includes time with the Galvin brothers. The menu is exactly what you want in this setting: Mersea oysters, Cromer crab, monkfish stuffed with crab, and excellent chips. Upstairs, the rooms are lovely, with super king beds, Sanderson wallpapers and sea views from the top room. Read our full review here.If you fancy retreating to an island without the chaos of the airport and long travel plans, Mersea might just be the one. Be prepared to slow down though. It might be close to London, but the pace of life here is anything but…
