The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements.
All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – which give Laps watches a vast array of personalities. Some stay closer to traditional watchmaking and align with the vintage design cues, employing materials like opal, while others are far more offbeat, featuring graphic illustrations that range from cartoonish to fine art. The Signature collection is for someone who doesn’t take their wrist game too seriously. The audacious designs are incredibly unique and certainly not for everyone. Now, the brand has made a rather abrupt pivot to the other end of the spectrum with a pretty compelling mechanical line.
I’m not surprised I was unfamiliar with Laps until the press kit for the first models in the new Studio Series came across my desk. I do my best to reject labels when it comes to watch collecting. I firmly believe if you own a watch – any watch, regardless of the cost or the caliber – you can consider yourself a collector. However, I can understand why those, like me, who are more deeply entrenched in the nerdier side of collecting never had Laps on their radar until now. With the Arche models, Laps has certainly upped its credibility in the horological community, backing up style with substance.
I’ve spent just over a week on the wrist with the Laps Arche Serie 01 in green, and it’s been a great wrist companion. The particular shade is beautiful and versatile, extending across the sober matte textured dial and leather strap. In addition to hours and minutes displayed through simple tapered hands and stick indices, we get a date function tucked just below the typical 3 o’clock position at 4 o’clock and in a pleasing parallelogram shape. The dial of the Serie 01 models is well executed but pretty unremarkable. For these models, the case really feels more like the focal point.
For the case of the Arche models, the brand has made a pivot from a rectangular to a classic round shape in a distinctive execution combining five layers that create concentric circles to draw the eye in toward the dial. The layers are further highlighted with a variety of contrasting finishes from vertical brushing to polishing. With modest proportions at 37.5mm and only 9.8mm thick, the sizing is highly accessible for all wrists. Yet, the watch still commands a lot of wrist presence thanks to the design of the case that’s bold, not delicate.
I have thoroughly taken advantage of every excuse to plan outfits around the Serie 01 green edition and get as much wrist time as possible with the model. While attending several industry events throughout the week, I received a lot of questions and compliments about my wrist game and felt proud to give the watch some attention. That said, as an aspiring enamel artist, I can’t help but long for what I don’t have. I would love to have experienced one of the Serie 02 models and check out one of the enamel dials under a loupe.
Coming full circle, the dial is the defining feature that distinguishes the Serie 02 from the 01 within the Arche collection. Here, the dial reaches for the spotlight again in two executions: blue and black. Let me remind you that black and white are the most challenging enamel colors to execute on a solid dial – perfection is key to get that crisp and consistent glossy finish. On the other hand, I’ll be the first to say blue watches are a dime a dozen, but from the photos, this specific shade of blue is really grabbing my attention, particularly in combination with the alligator textured strap – I have a feeling this watch would look equally beautiful with a white tee and jeans as it would with a dress or a blazer.