Your ultimate travel guide to Scottsdale, Arizona: Where to stay, eat and drink, and what to do
A direct flight from London to Phoenix might not be the first thing that springs to mind when you're plotting your next long-haul escape, but honestly, it should be. Within hours of taking off, the glassy skyline and grey drizzle was replaced by towering saguaro cacti, burnt-orange mountains, cloudless skies and a dry desert heat that somehow makes everything feel cinematic.And while Scottsdale has long had a reputation as a low-key golf and retirement destination, that image is pretty outdated. Yes, there are beautiful resorts and excellent golf courses, but there's also a chic hotel scene, incredible food, a thriving arts culture and enough outdoor adventure to satisfy even the most committed city girl.Whether you want sunrise hot air balloon rides, cowboy-coded horseback treks, spa treatments involving cactus or dinners that make you want to cancel your next plan, Scottsdale absolutely delivers. Here's everything worth adding to your itinerary.Where to stayFour Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon NorthIf you want full desert escapism, this is where you check in. Set against the backdrop of Pinnacle Peak, the Four Seasons Scottsdale is blissfully detached from real life. The casitas are designed to blend into the desert landscape - all warm earthy tones, natural textures and private terraces that open out onto uninterrupted cactus-filled views. Most mornings, I'd wake up in the enormous king-size bed, throw on a robe, make a coffee and head straight outside with my book, briefly convincing myself this could be my permanent life.Everyone's clicking on...Days here naturally revolve around the pools. There are three across the property, including a main pool, an adults-only option and a family pool, but the main pool quickly became my default afternoon spot. Framed by the dramatic Crescent Butte boulders in the distance, it's very easy to lose a few hours there with something cold in hand.The spa is also worth properly setting time aside for. I had a massage using prickly pear cactus gel (something I never thought I'd say) and it somehow unknotted every bit of tension I'd been carrying around for months. There's also a seriously good gym on-site, complete with everything from Pelotons to StairMasters.One evening, we swapped cocktails for something a little different and joined the resort's resident astronomer, who had previously worked for NASA, for a stargazing session under the desert sky. Looking up at the Milky Way through a telescope, surrounded by complete silence, ended up being one of the calmest moments of the entire trip.Prices start at £277 per night.BOOK HERE(C) Four Seasons Hotels & ResortsHotel Valley HoFor something with a little more retro glamour, Hotel Valley Ho is the Old Town Scottsdale stay.This mid-century icon has the kind of design that makes you want to redecorate your entire flat the second you get home. The décor leans fully into retro-chic vibes, with terrazzo flooring, mirrored finishes and bold mosaic details throughout. There's a playful energy to the whole place, especially around the OH Pool, where DJs soundtrack long, sun-soaked afternoons on weekends.Its location is another major win, putting you right in the heart of Scottsdale and within easy reach of the city's bars, galleries and restaurants. I stayed in one of the Tower Suites, which was huge, beautifully styled and felt far more like a chic apartment than a standard hotel room, complete with a bright yellow kitchen. The hotel has also hosted Hollywood names including Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart over the years, which only adds to the appeal.Prices start at £106 per night.BOOK HERE Hotel Valley HoWhat to doTake a sunrise hot air balloon rideI questioned my life choices slightly when my alarm went off at 4.30am. Getting into a hot air balloon before sunrise, as someone who isn't great with heights, felt… ambitious. But within minutes of lifting off, that anxiety completely disappeared.There's something oddly peaceful about floating over the desert in near silence, watching the sun slowly pull the landscape into focus. The mountains start to glow, the cacti cast long shadows and everything feels still in a way that's hard to describe unless you've experienced it.The landing is slightly less graceful, but the post-flight glass of bubbly more than makes up for it. Izzy TroodGo horse riding at sunsetI didn't realise how much I wanted to go horse riding in the desert until I was actually there, and suddenly it felt non-negotiable.At Saguaro Lake Ranch, I was paired with a horse far more competent than I was and taken out along trails that cut through cacti, streams and open desert. Go at sunset if you can. The light softens, everything turns golden and, for a moment, you do feel slightly like you're in your own Western film. Izzy TroodHike the McDowell Sonoran PreserveIf your idea of switching off involves fresh air, a good walking trail and scenery that makes you stop every five minutes for photos, the McDowell Sonoran Preserve is a must.The Gateway Loop Trail is one of the best-known hikes in the area and gives you a proper sense of Scottsdale's dramatic desert terrain. You'll walk among giant saguaros, scrubby brush and rocky outcrops, with mountain views unfolding around each bend.The dry desert air feels oddly cleansing after city life, although it's definitely one for an early start before the heat properly kicks in.Get your culture fixScottsdale might win you over with its desert landscapes first, but its arts and architecture scene deserves just as much attention.A visit to Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright's winter home and studio, is essential. Built in 1937, the property was designed to blend into the surrounding desert and still feels strikingly modern today. I loved that you're able to wander through the property at your own pace and even sit in some of the living spaces, which makes the whole experience feel far more immersive. There's also an audio guide you can download to your phone, which gives just enough insight into Wright's ideas without ever feeling like a history lesson.For a broader look at the city's creative side, spend time exploring Old Town’s galleries and museums. Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West offers a deep dive into the region's history through artefacts and exhibitions spread across two floors and an outdoor space, while the Museum of Contemporary Art provides a more modern contrast, including an immersive light installation by Squidsoup, who are from Cheltenham, of all places!For something a little more under-the-radar, head to Cattle Track Arts Compound, a hidden gem that even some locals don't seem to know about. Artists rent studios across the site and, when we visited, many were more than happy to chat through what they were working on, from paintings to ceramics and sculpture.If you have time, Cosanti is also worth a visit. The sculptural concrete domes of Paolo Soleri's former studio feel futuristic and prehistoric at the same time, while his famous hand-poured bronze windbells are still made on site. We even caught a bronze casting while we were there.Izzy TroodWhere to eat and drinkThe MissionFor a dinner spot that feels a bit more elevated but still lively, head to The Mission. The table-side guacamole is non-negotiable and a performance in itself, with the waiter mixing everything fresh in front of you, and tailoring the heat level to your liking. The menu is full of tacos, grilled meats, fish and salads, but the Shaved Kale Salad with poached salmon completely won me over.As for drinks, the only real option was a margarita. They have five different versions, from prickly pear to cucumber, but I stuck with a classic marg (or two) and, as someone who orders one basically everywhere, it was genuinely one of the best I've had.View full post on InstagramThe VigSet near the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, we headed to The Vig for an early lunch after a hike and it couldn't have felt more well-timed. We grabbed a table out on the patio, ordered margaritas immediately and fully settled into a long lunch.I went for the Mediterranean salad with chicken, which felt exactly right after sweating through a hike in the Arizona heat. The whole place has that relaxed, casual-but-still-cute atmosphere that makes you want to stay all afternoon.AZ88Part restaurant, part bar, part Old Town institution, AZ88 has been around for decades and still feels cool. The interiors give the whole place more of an art gallery energy than a traditional restaurant, with tinfoil-style mirrored ceilings and even bathrooms known for their disco balls and nightclub-level music.We stopped by after wandering around the art galleries and the Chicken Caesar salad I ordered completely hit the spot after a day in the sun, although the menu also covers everything from burgers to sandwiches.FnBFnB is one of those restaurants that comes up every time you ask for recommendations in Scottsdale and, for once, the hype is completely justified. The menu changes constantly depending on what's in season, with a focus on local ingredients and bold flavours.We ordered a mix of dishes to share, including spicy grilled broccoli with aioli and crispy onions, cauliflower caponata, lamb manti, chicken and fresh pasta, all of which disappeared from the table within minutes. The Arizona wine list is absolutely worth exploring too.PostinoFor a casual lunch that still feels a little bit chic, Postino is a solid choice. The bruschetta boards are the main event, with a pick-four setup that's ideal if you want to try a bit of everything, from smoked salmon and pesto to ricotta, dates and pistachio.They also do $6 glasses of wine until 5pm every day, which naturally we took full advantage of. The EndsMy favourite spot of the trip, The Ends (short for The Energy Never Dies), takes inspiration from travel and Anthony Bourdain's explorations through food. The restaurant describes its dishes as inspired by "places we've actually been, meals we still think about" and the whole experience feels thoughtful and creative without ever tipping into pretentious territory.The red snapper was perfectly cooked and full of flavour, while Tommy's Biscuits with jam and honey were the kind of starter you instantly wish you'd ordered more of. And the brisket burnt ends? Ridiculously good. I'm still thinking about them.View full post on InstagramPlatform 18A themed bar can go very wrong, but Platform 18 absolutely nails it. Designed like a glamorous 1920s train carriage, the whole place feels immersive without trying too hard, from the moving "windows" to the staff dressed as old-school train conductors and fully staying in character throughout the experience.The cocktails are just as dramatic as the setting. My friend's drink, Beware the Paparazzi, even arrived with flashing cameras. Obsessed.Izzy TroodRusty Spur SaloonIf you're in Old Town, you have to go to Rusty Spur at least once. With swinging saloon doors, live country music and people line dancing in the middle of the day, it delivers exactly the kind of Wild West energy you secretly want Arizona to have.
