I spent 48 hours in the ‘pocket-sized paradise’ between England and France

It’s been described as a hidden gem from a bygone era (Photo: Jed Bradley/Metro) A pandemic, war and an increasingly fragile climate have left us all a bit shaky when it comes to long-haul international travel. But just a breezy 45-minute flight from London is a pocket-sized paradise that feels like a secret gem from a bygone era. The Channel Island of Guernsey has immaculate beaches, a (perhaps surprisingly) exquisite food scene, and the kind of laidback vibe that every traveller longs for. Traffic is non-existent, doors are left unlocked, and everyone knows everyone, for better or worse. There is no language barrier and best of all, you don’t need to change your Pound sterling. I spend 48 hours there to see what it has to offer. Best of Best of Metro Deals Get exclusive discounts with Metro Deals – save on getaways and spa days. Powered by Wowcher Bannatyne Spa: Spa day for two with treatments, lunch & prosecco — save up to 57% off. Get deal now Mystery Escape: Hotel stay with return flights from as low as £92pp — save on worldwide holiday packages. Get deal now Beach Retreat (Lanzarote): 4* Lanzarote beach holiday with flights — save up to 58%. Get deal now To view this video please enable JavaScript, and consider upgrading to a web browser that supports HTML5 video The background (and getting around) Guernsey may be less than an hour’s flight from London, but it feels like a another world. First things first, you’re almost guaranteed good weather. This southerly speck sees more hours of sunshine than the rest of the British Isles, and if the heavens do open, just wait five minutes, and the rain band moves on.   Geographically, Guernsey is closer to France than England, and that connection runs deeper than undersea electricity cables. Guernsey’s cliff walks capture spectacular views (Photo: Jed Bradley/Metro) One of the five inhabited islands that make up the Channel Islands archipelago, Guernsey has a dark but fascinating history. During WWII, it was occupied by Nazi forces in what became known as a ‘model occupation’ — a sobering chapter that lives on in the underground bunkers and fortifications dotted along the coast. The memory lingers. On May 9, Liberation Day is celebrated, marking the end of Nazi occupation. Today, the pace of life is pleasingly slow, the mass tourism that boomed in the 1980s a distant memory, killed off by cheap packages to Spain. Where the land meets the sea along the Guernsey seafront (Photo: Jed Bradley/Metro) Remember that Guernsey is a self-governing Crown dependency, which means it belongs to the British Crown, but it’s not part of the UK. That in turn means you’ll need to invest in an eSIM to navigate your route around by rental car (if you can handle the narrow country lanes as main roads); by bus (which are managed expertly and take contactless payment); or by the island’s very own taxi app.  Alternatively, spin around on two wheels. You’ll find café stop-offs everywhere and even the priciest e-bikes are left leaning outside, carefree. To view this video please enable JavaScript, and consider upgrading to a web browser that supports HTML5 video Day 1 The cliff walk that winds its way from Renoir to Jerbourg is a great way to get your bearings around the island while enjoying its dramatic coastline. It takes about two hours at a steady pace, and the views are spectacular. Stop to enjoy a drink and a slice of authentic Guernsey gâche (their take on cake) in the garden of the Renoir Cafe. Guernsey gâche is a Renoir Tea Garden favourite (Photo: Jed Bradley/Metro) Then there’s Castle Cornet. Over 800 years old and still standing proudly in the town centre, it has passed between rulers, sometimes voted in, sometimes taken by force. Your £12 ticket provides hours to explore the medieval grounds, gardens, and museums.  Castle Cornet at dusk (Photo: Jed Bradley / Metro) Guernsey was once a hub of agriculture and maritime trade. But fast forward to today, and it’s morphed into a powerhouse of financial services, thanks in part to its favourable tax arrangements.  It’s hard to come across a local that hasn’t worked in the sector at some point. The island is also bigging up its culinary output, and a good example of this is the boutique wine being produced at Reservoir View Vineyard. Established last April, husband and wife duo Lily and Jono have ambitious plans for their first bottles to be released next year. They are keen to show visitors what goes into planting, maintaining and eventually harvesting three different grape varieties.  Jono and Lily explain the unique challenges of growing, harvesting and fermenting wine on a tiny island (Photo: Jed Bradley / Metro) After a full day clocking steps, Black Box Sauna on the west coast is the perfect reset. It offers stunning sunset views over the rocks, and the heat pretty much forces you into the sea for a swim. The best part? Several pubs are just a short walk around the bay.  After the Rock Box Sauna, a sea swim is a must (Photo: Jed Bradley / Metro) Day 2 The Channel Islands inter-island rivalry is most evident at the historic football and rugby matches that see the best men’s and women’s teams from Jersey and Guernsey battle it out at alternating stadiums. I was lucky to catch rugby’s Siam cup, the second oldest in the world, dating back to 1920, being handed to Guernsey with a 35-27 win at the small but perfectly formed Footes Lane ground.  Some 30 miles away, Guernsey also managed to retain football’s Muratti Vase 2-1. Incredible scenes. The Guernsey men’s team take the win 35-27 (Photo: Jed Bradley/Metro) Unlike other European destinations, in Guernsey, there isn’t a chain restaurant in sight. In their place, the island has curated a mix of independent restaurants, global food influences, and a calendar of exciting food festivals. At the top of the game is Virac. Named after the Guernésiais word for seaweed, this Michelin-starred, spectacularly located restaurant has cooking to match. Welsh chef Nathan Davies and his wife, Hollie Davies, opened the doors to their open kitchen and sophisticated dining room last year. A staff from around the world welcome you to enjoy a drink by the wood-burning outdoor fire pits, before serving an indulgent ten-course tasting menu that uses the best of what the island has to offer (especially seaweed). This one’s for special occasions, though, as the food will set you back £155 before wine pairings or service charge. Worry not, this island has something to suit every budget. Mid-range favourites include Hook in the town centre, complete with a downstairs cocktail Casbah bar offering £8 specials every day. Say no more. Down the seafront is Balthazar, which serves up the surf and turf flavours of fresh seafood and decadent meat dishes. Can’t decide? The west coast’s Cobo Beach has three restaurants in one. The terraced Rockmount pub for your seaside drinks and food all day long. Randalls Public Bar out the back is the local favourite, lined with TVs for sport and pool tables dotted in the middle. A surf and turf selection is on offer at Balthazar (Photo: Jed Bradley/Metro) For market flavours, Seafront Sundays turns the main road into a stretch of food stalls much-loved by locals and visitors alike. The 'misogynistic' phrases parents need to look out for — especially if you have a boy Pornhub's new sapphic site for women? It's like 'McDonald's selling apple slices' Abandoned UK airport takes next step to finally reopen after 12 years Beyond that, take your pick of local fish & chips, Thai, Indian, Indonesian and more. Prices are cheaper than the mainland and you’ll recognise the face of everyone who is serving you by the end of your trip. Oh, and don’t leave without trying an ice cream made from pure Guernsey milk. Much of the island turns out for fun, food and feel-good times at Seafront Sundays. (Photo: Jed Bradley / Metro) Where to stay in Guernsey – and how to get there Where to stay Nicely positioned on Guernsey’s southeast coast, Fermain Valley Hotel brings elegance and connection to nature. Rooms offer a gorgeous view of the bay below, so walk down if you want the sea, or stay put for the pool and deck (currently being refreshed for summer reopening). Highlights include cooked breakfast made to order each morning and the Tree House Spa, which offers a range of restful treatments. Classic Double rooms start from £185 per night. Morning coffee on your private balcony anyone? (Photo: Jed Bradley / Metro) There are budget-friendly options, too. Depending on the season, guest house rooms can be picked up from as low as £70, and Airbnb private rooms from as little as £61 a night. Getting to Guernsey Guernsey’s airline Aurigny (pronounced or-ree-nee) serves nine UK airports plus a seasonal route from Dublin, with several flights a day from Gatwick starting from just £98 return. BA has recently added more choices with a larger plane from Heathrow, which flies daily from Terminal 5. If flying isn’t your thing, ferries from Poole come in at under £100. Jed Bradley was a guest of Visit Guernsey, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent. Arrow MORE: Allow three hours before flight home due to EES delays, airline boss warns Arrow MORE: I’m a singles holiday expert — these are the best mini-breaks for solo travellers Arrow MORE: The surprisingly common holiday mistakes that raise your STI risk Comment now Comments Add Metro as a Preferred Source on Google Add as preferred source The Getaway Expert Your exclusive seven-day guide to travelling with confidence from Metro's resident travel expert, Alice Murphy.
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