Dior: Crafting Fashion at SCAD FASH Delightfully Brings Couture Down to Earth
Photo Courtesy of SCAD
Most fashion exhibitions focus on the historical elements of a designer and the “why” behind a particular collection or body of work. But the newly unveiled Dior: Crafting Fashion at Atlanta’s SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film aims to demystify the heady ideal of couture and dive deeply into the “how” behind each creation.
Curated by Hélène Starkman, the exhibition curator for Christian Dior Couture, and organized by the museum’s creative director Rafael Brauer Gomes, the show flows through seven thematic sections that offer undeniable teachings and endless inspiration — SCAD FASH is a part of SCAD after all, the university famous for fostering creative careers.
To set the tone, the first part of the exhibit establishes the eight designers at the helm of the Maison through the years, from Christian Dior himself in 1947 to current creative director Jonathan Anderson. Each creator’s distinct point of view is seen through the lens of just one head-to-toe look, along with archival notes, sketches and vision boards that tell the story of their inspiration.
Inside Dior: Crafting Fashion
Photo Courtesy of SCAD
A rich, red velvet skirt suit with a tie at the neck epitomizes Monsieur Dior’s vision, a silhouette inspired by his deep friendship with fashion illustrator Christian Bèrard. For the young Yves Saint Laurent, a black day dress and cloche hat gives a nod to the influence of French New Wave cinema to evoke a more modern mode of dressing. Marc Bohan’s mastery of couture can be seen in a dramatic plunge-back gown that reinterpreted Msr. Dior’s trademark bows. Gianfranco Ferré, the first non-french designer for the house, played with bold color, seen here in a cerulean patterned frock. Enter John Galliano, the British provocateur, whose reinvented bar suit is paired with almost subversive laced platform ankle boots and a sky-high hat designed by Dior’s legendary milliner, Stephen Jones. Raf Simons’ wasp-waisted frock reveals his signature figure flattery. A juxtaposition of tough corsetry and ultra-delicate, tiered ruffles that morph from white to grey, the gown showcasing Maria Grazia Chiuri’s work defines her eye on feminist celebration.
Photo Courtesy of SCAD
As for Jonathan Anderson, the dress on display is not to be missed. A notable look from his first couture show, the shapely sculptural piece inspired by the works of 75-year-old ceramicist Magdalene Odundo is shown along with the cyclamen headpieces synonymous with the collection. Though it appears to be made from hard material, the dress “is actually very light and fluid,” Starkman says of the dress. The ornate blooms, however, not quite so. As Jones recalled during a panel discussion at SCADStyle in a run up to the exhibit opening, “the weight of the flowers was more than a hairpin could support.” He recounted how the flowers perched on a wire, which was then sewn into mini-braids in the models’ hair.
From Toile to Couture
Photo Courtesy of SCAD
The next area of intrigue offers a unique look into how the proverbial sausage is made, displaying never-before-seen toiles — the mockups of garments — juxtaposed next to the finished pieces. It’s highly unusual to see these muslins for couture pieces, but more importantly, by being able to track the draping, each panel and pleat, design students can actually catch a glimpse into what makes a piece of fashion transform into wearable art.
From these style seeds, the exhibition flows into a literal garden. As the son of a fertilizer manufacturer, flowers factored prominently in Christian Dior’s life, and as such became codes of the house. Famously superstitious, Dior reportedly sewed lily of the valley petals into the hem of his couture creations for good luck, and he personally chose the floral notes for his first perfume, Miss Dior. Blooms of all variety, on everything from gowns to accessories including shoes and handbags, can be seen in this section.
Mirroring the notion that the impact of a design can evolve through collaboration, the next hall showcases a collection of one of the house’s most iconic pieces — the Lady Dior handbag — reinterpreted by modern artists including Mickalene Thomas and Faith Ringgold.
The Most Memorable Pop-Culture Pieces
Photo Courtesy of SCAD
Standout runway and red carpet looks conclude the show. Here, pieces such as the iconic recreated bar suit seen on Elle Fanning at the 2019 Cannes Film Festival, Lady Gaga’s white high-slit number for the 2019 SAG Awards and the black and silver gown inspired by Dior’s 1949 “Junon” design Natalie Portman wore at Cannes in 2023 are instantly recognizable, and also a key to how fashion flows from sketch to zeitgeist.
True, high fashion is confection; something meant to be savored in rare moments. But by pulling back the curtain on how an idea actually takes shape to become something with meaning, Dior: Crafting Fashion succeeds in bridging aspiration to inspiration — a lesson we can all take away.
Dior: Crafting Fashion at SCAD FASH in Atlanta, Georgia can be viewed by SCAD students (for free, every day if they’d like!) as well as the general public, with ticket prices up to $10, now through August 23. For more information, visit scadfash.org.
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