Rising Middle East fashion brands to watch and why supporting them now matters
Since early March, as events have unfolded across the region, a quieter and more fragile creative economy has begun to take shape across the Middle East – one that is defined by disruption. Designers and makers, long attuned to the rhythms of regional life, now find themselves navigating something far less predictable: the spillover effects of instability across several countries.Studios have been displaced, supply chains interrupted and the rituals of consumption have shifted. The once dependable cadence of shopping and commissioning has faltered and, for many independent labels, this threatens a sharp contraction in business, compounding the uncertainty of daily life.We wanted to use this moment, and this space, to highlight designers from some of the affected countries – those whose work is rooted in identity, tradition and distinctly regional sensibilities, and who now contend not only with the dominance of international brands, but also with forces that are far more immediate and existential.To engage with their work is to help sustain a cultural ecosystem that feels particularly delicate. In moments like these, support becomes more than a transaction – it becomes a lifeline.BahrainNoon by Noor A fixture at London Fashion Week, Noon by Noor is a laid-back womenswear label built on masculine codes. Relaxed tailoring is softened with delicate detailing, creating silhouettes that are modern and feminine.AKS The Label A luxury abaya house, AKS The Label sees traditional garments through a modern prism. Think kaftans cut on the bias in bold black-and-white stripes, or velvet abayas fastened with grosgrain ribbons. Elsewhere, floaty floral kaftans feature petals and leaves that seem almost burnt into the chiffon, lending them a fragile beauty.IraqZeena Zaki A regular at Dubai Fashion Week, Iraqi designer Zeena Zaki is a familiar name in the UAE. A self-taught designer, she launched her label in 2006, drawing on Edwardian tailoring for her corseted, body-conscious evening gowns. Known for glamorous occasionwear, Zaki most recently looked to the Indian lehenga, merging her signature silhouette with intricate handwork.Hajer Ghani Iraqi jewellery designer Hajer Ghani draws on history, shaping her work around cuneiform – the wedge-shaped script of ancient Mesopotamia dating back 5,000 years. Its distinctive lines run through her pieces, from earrings and bracelets to chokers and necklaces, including the Wisdom pendant in 18K yellow gold and pearls.KuwaitMarzook Launched by siblings Fahad and Shouq Al-Marzook, the brand makes statement clutches such as the bestselling Pill, Fan and Orb. Defined by bold shapes and metallic finishes or Swarovski crystals, the label is all about head-turning glamour. Always surprising, and with a keen eye for the unconventional, it has even carved a globe-shaped Orb bag from wood, inlaid with metal.May Al Qasser May Al Qassar’s jewellery is a celebration of Kuwaiti culture, expressed through pieces inspired by Arabic calligraphy. Founded in 2010, the label offers rings, bracelets and necklaces, often designed to be stacked – from the Badra ring in white gold and two-toned sapphire to the Element necklaces set with marquise and round-cut diamonds.LebanonAlexandra Hakim This Lebanese-British designer focuses on zero-waste jewellery, reworking discarded and reclaimed materials into handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces. Now operating out of Spain, her work is fresh and modern, from the hand-hammered Gold Sparkle Sun charm in 22K gold-plated brass with white cubic zirconia, to her bestselling Gold Matches earrings, inspired by burnt matchsticks and rendered in recycled 22K gold-plated brass, oxidised silver and red enamel.Sarah’s BagBased in Beirut, Sarah’s Bag is more than an accessories label – it is also a social enterprise. Founded in 2000 by trained sociologist Sarah Beydoun, every stitch, bead, zip and handle is made by disadvantaged women through a long-running programme designed to offer dignity and financial independence to those caught in cycles of poverty. Pieces include the Mandala Palm clutch, crafted from wood and painstakingly inlaid with mother-of-pearl in intricate geometric patterns, and the Hobb Loulou pouch, a hand-beaded velvet design spelling out hobb (love) in faux pearls. Now expanded into outerwear, Sarah’s Bag is reaching a whole new audience.OmanBthaina Making luxury abayas and kaftans since 2010, Buthaina Al Zadjali folds traditional Omani craftsmanship throughout her designs. Embroidery, regarded as a wearable archive of Omani cultural heritage, features frequently, as lavish handwork encasing shoulders, covering bodice panels and down sleeves of lightweight kaftans. Metallic stitches glimmer on flowing apricot kaftans, and double as breastplates on chic black cover-ups, while tone-on-tone work adorns a fitted, lemon yellow dress.Deema Oman One of Oman’s first luxury brands, Deema Oman was launched in 2008 by mother and daughter team Shadya Al-Ismaily and Suad Al-Riyami, offering distinctive, high-quality jewellery. It has since expanded its offerings across homeware and interior design, but jewellery remains central to its DNA. Notable pieces include the wavy hoops of the Mushawak three-toned earrings, in gold with peridot, citrine and amethyst; the asymmetrical Mashribiya Charm necklace in 18K yellow gold; and an open choker, the ends of which are tipped with geometric patterns. PalestineReemami Already a favourite of Bella Hadid, Palestinian label Reemami uses traditional motifs to animate its womenswear and wall art. Playful and modern, its designs include the Ghazal Al Banat dress, decorated with hand-drawn illustrations, and the Maqluba dress – named after the Levantine rice dish – printed with sketches of keys symbolising return, tins of olive oil and traditional tatreez embroidery.Hazar Jawabra The designer-artist behind fantastical, almost creature-like knitwear, Hazar Jawabra is unconcerned with practicality. Taught to knit by her grandmother, who was taught by hers, Jawabra reimagines Palestinian craft and memory into colourful, almost childlike suits. Her work was recently featured in Roberto Filippello’s talk Dressed for Dissent: Decolonial Fashion and the Struggle for Palestine at the Institute of Art in the Arab World in Beirut.QatarWadha Founded by Wadha Al Hajri in 2010, Wadha is rooted in quiet simplicity. Pieces include a voluminous black dress cut from dotted tulle, with front pockets and a tied Watteau back, while another pairs a fitted bodice and dropped waist with a full skirt and a train falling from the shoulders.Nora Founded by three Qatari sisters in Dubai, Nora is a womenswear brand offering fluid dresses in soft jersey, bamboo yarn and fine knits. Cut to skim the body, the designs are flattering, modest and easy to wear, in tones of deep red, mocha, cream, pale blue and sienna.Saudi ArabiaKML Pronounced kamel (which means complete), KML is an avant-garde menswear label. A semifinalist at the 2025 Fashion Trust Arabia Awards, it is earning plaudits for its fresh take on menswear, reworking thobes and bishts into contemporary silhouettes – from wrap-front tops and high-waisted, extra-wide trousers to oversized kanduras recut as skirts.Ashi Studio Designer and founder of Ashi Studio, Mohammed Ashi broke boundaries in June 2023 when he became the first Saudi designer invited into the exalted ranks of French haute couture. Beloved by celebrities, Ashi recently dressed Margot Robbie in a shredded, corseted custom couture look for the Australian premiere of Wuthering Heights, and Teyana Taylor in a body-moulded bustier stretch-satin gown for the 57th NAACP Image Awards.United Arab EmiratesBouguessaLaunched by self-taught designer Faiza Bouguessa in 2014, Bouguessa has established itself as a go-to name for minimalist tailoring. The oversized Alison jacket, for example, features selvedge tape across the shoulders and a welt pocket at the back, while the Elisa jacket has an intentionally flipped collar. The bitter-chocolate Muriella dress, meanwhile, is draped through the front for an elegantly cinched waist.Odeem Founded in 2018 by Emirati designer Fatma Al Otaiba, Odeem grew out of her search for the perfect bag. Handmade in South Africa, the range now includes pieces such as the Odeem x Alia Bin Omair collaboration and the Carry Leather Granulated Ring clutch – a slouchy drawstring silhouette in calf leather, finished with textured gold-coloured rings.
