Plaza Khao Gaeng Borough Yards Review | “Even More Thai to Go Around”
The curry over rice joint has gone south of the river After opening a second outpost of Speedboat Bar in Notting Hill in the summer, Luke Farrell wasted no time in expanding his other Thai restaurant Plaza Khao Gaeng. The new location in railway arches by Borough Yards is a much bigger site than the original at Arcade Food Hall on Tottenham Court Road but it’s kept the same bustling canteen vibe. And it looks even more striking thanks to bold signage, strip lighting, and a blue tarpaulin canopy connecting the main dining space to the adjoining area in front of the open kitchen. Eat This Farrell showcases dishes from southern Thailand at Plaza Khao Gaeng, using produce like betel leaf, galangal, lemongrass and Thai basil he’s cultivated himself at Ryewater Nursery in Dorset. If you’ve been to the Tottenham Court Road branch of Plaza, you’ll recognise several of the dishes, including the Hat Yai fried chicken; the tender beef shoulder massaman (get rice and one of the excellent roti to mop up all the curry); and the khua kling muu, dry wok-fried pork with chillies and long pepper, which is as fiery as ever. The staff run through the spice levels of the menu before you order but this one is only for those who can handle the heat. It’s not a complete copy though, with Farrell taking the opportunity to develop the concept and adding a bunch of new dishes to the offering. There’s a reinvented version of the miang bites, made with pork and peanut sausage, fermented fish and galangal floss in betel leaves; a handful of new curries, including a braised pork leg that’s served from a cart, like it would be in Thailand; and stir-fried beef with chilli and garlic, which is a great one to add in to your order to balance out the spice. The strawberry salad with green mango, coconut and crispy jasmine fish is well worth a try. It hits all the hot, sweet and sour notes you want from a Thai salad and you won’t have had Borough Market berries quite like it before. Drink This If you’re not wheeling out a Singha beer tower (it is party season after all), then get stuck into the tropical cocktails. The Maeng Da Lagerita is our go-to but the watermelon Taeng Mo Martini is also refreshing, and the Galangal Soda will cool you down a treat too. Why GoWe’ve been fans of Plaza since the first site opened and with the Borough restaurant, Farrell and his team have proved that they can consistently deliver real deal Thai food. You’ve got the signatures you know and love, you’ve got new dishes to try (which you can also get as a £49 set menu), you’ve got killer cocktails, so what else could you need?Key InformationAddress | 18 Stoney St, London SE1 9ADFor more information | plazakhaogaeng.com
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