There’s Another Big Bull in the Cotswolds
This 18-room boutique hotel sits inside a refurbished 16th century Cotswolds innThere’s something deeply satisfying about hopping on a train just after lunch and, before your brain even realises you’ve left London, finding yourself rolling through wide Cotswolds fields and proper patchwork-quilt countryside. Burford sits right in the middle of it; small, charming and full of character, all crooked buildings, sweet shops and vintage sporting antiques shops that haven’t changed since the 70s.When you stay at Bull, you get picked up in a branded Land Rover for the short drive into town, a small detail but a memorable one. From the high street, the building looks modest, almost shy. Inside, it’s a different world entirely.This 15th-century inn is a balancing act of old bones and contemporary attitude. Sloping floors, exposed beams and stone fireplaces meet clean modern lines, warm lighting and an outrageous art collection. You turn a corner and find a Basquiat staring across at a Warhol; a quick detour and there’s Dali, Bacon, Hirst and many, many more. Did we mention this is owned by Matthew Freud?The RoomI was lodged up in room 2, an apartment-style room split over two floors: a living space below, cocooned in soft tones, comfy chairs and the kind of quiet that city people pay good money to experience. Joe’s Tea, Hermanos coffee pods, and snacks within reach all make it feel like someone’s actually considered what makes a room welcoming rather than just well-designed.Upstairs, the giant bed sits under soft lighting and there a little quirks giving the space personality, like classic Penguin books, wine fridges hidden inside the wardrobe, and a view stretching over the courtyard and into the gardens. The bathroom is a full marble moment, with twin sinks, underfloor heating and a walk-in shower big enough to host its own event.Pizza Before the FireBefore getting into Bull’s headline dining option, I tried Sl’ice, the pizza terrace run by Michele Pascarella (2025’s Pizza Maker of the Year) and Anshu Anghotra (ex-The Connaught). These two have really nailed it, turning out pizzas with perfectly blistered bases and fresh, balanced toppings. The margherita was excellent, and the double pepperoni and black truffle were just as goodDinner at WildWild, a ten-seat, live-fire dining experience led by chef Ben Chamberlain, is at the heart of the Bull operation. Set in the sunken courtyard, an evening here is part-theatre, part-elemental cooking masterclass, with smoke and flame expertly handled at every turn.The 11-course tasting menu is paced well and you get enough context for each serving without it drifting into lecture territory. Dishes like a pumpkin plate that tasted like autumn and a steak cooked perfectly over the fire showcase Ben’s creative and confident approach.A Nightcap…and a Game to RememberVincent’s, Bull’s cocktail bar, is a low-lit sanctuary run by mixologist Greg Woods and his drinks are punchy but unshowy. But the real late-night mischief lives in Hide, the hotel’s clandestine poker den behind an old prison door. At the Idris Elba-designed table, a pro dealer walked newbies through the game and table service keeping drinks flowing. I played, lost nothing (a miracle) and only slightly dented my ego.Slow Mornings and Spa TimeBreakfast happens in Graze, the light-filled breakfast bar where the smell of good coffee properly wakes you up. Pastries, eggs and the full works made for a solid start, and an excellent full-body massage in the Zen treatment suite really set me up for the day.By early afternoon I was back in the Land Rover, onto a train and home before rush hour, feeling like I’d been away for days rather than one night. Bull is one of those places that feels charming, indulgent and genuinely fun, thanks to warm service, rooms with personality, beautiful architecture and memorable food.Key InformationAddress | Bull Burford, 105 Burford High Street, Oxfordshire, OX18 4RGFor more information | bullburford.com
