LFW Special: Avshalom Gur, The Brand Whisperer Shaping Global Fashion
Designer and consultant, Avshalom Gur in his East London studio© Dana Ram Photography 2011
Fashion is a famously fickle industry; it seems not a season goes by without the dramatic rise—and subsequent implosion—of one of its stars. In 2023 alone there was a churn of at least 31 creative directors at luxury houses, revealing the eye-watering pressures of the job. But occasionally, an individual surfaces who is able to navigate these troubled waters and seemingly coasts through the bad weather. Avshalom Gur is such a personality.
If the name is unfamiliar to you, that’s because Gur is fashion’s best kept secret. But even if you haven’t heard of him, you’re guaranteed to have encountered his work. He’s been leaving his fingerprints all over fashion for the last two decades.
Ossie Clarke Autumn Winter 2008 London Fashion Week [Copyright Catwalking.com 'One Time Only' Publication]CATWALKING.COM
Gur’s CV boggles the mind. He’s worked hand in glove with international designer brands such as Chloé, Roberto Cavalli, Donna Karan, and Nicole Farhi, often supporting the founder directly. He was responsible for the revival of 1970s cult British brand, Ossie Clark, a venture that involved reimagining Clark’s legacy for the 21st century customer.
If brand revivals weren’t hard enough, Gur simultaneously launched an eponymous wearable art label, Avsh Alom Gur, which won the British Fashion Council’s prestigious NewGen award a record three times.
Campaign shot for wearable art label, AVSH ALOM GURDavid Roemer
Created in his East End London studio, Gur’s collections were stocked by retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Harvey Nichols and Harrods in the UK. The venerable Suzy Menkes described his designs as “surefire hits.”
Each collection debuted to a litany of press, with frequent appearances in publications such as Vogue, Women’s Wear Daily and The Financial Times. He’s dressed the likes of Paris Hilton and Helen Mirren, and in 2009, Booker Prize nominee, Linda Grant, immortalized Gur in her non-fiction book, The Thoughtful Dresser. In it, she compares him to Christian Dior.MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Milan Fashion Week (Photo by Ernesto S. Ruscio/Getty Images for Maryling)Getty Images for Maryling
Avshalom Gur On Becoming A ‘Brand Doctor’
So, how has he kept his footing in the shifting sands of fashion? “When I was doing my MA at Central Saint Martins in 2002,” Gur shares, “I read every biography I could get my hands on, whether it was about Halston or Calvin Klein. I learned the mistakes you could make in fashion, such as giving your trademark away too fast too cheap, and what led to people becoming successful then dying with nothing. In reading these stories you learn about psychology, and about business.”
During this time, Gur was studying under the grueling auspices of Louise Wilson, considered by many to be one of the greatest fashion educators in history (she was awarded an OBE for her work). Gur credits Wilson for crystalizing his design philosophy and still speaks of her mentorship reverently—but it was in reading these biographies that a great realization dawned on him: designers were often disposable.
“One moment they’re idolized, the next they’re in the bin,” he says, citing the coming and going of creative directors at big fashion houses. Gur knew he didn’t want to be another casualty of this pattern, and began to rethink his position in the market, “I believe individuality makes us shine but independence makes us stronger.”MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24: Designer Avshalom Gur walks the runway at the Maryling Fashion Show on February 24, 2025 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)Getty Images
His solution is ingenious: create his own company and never go on a payroll. “This way, you know the collaboration is temporary, so the illusion of security is not there,” he explains, “but you work together to execute a vision. When they can manage without you the partnership is over, though a friendship remains. It’s a bit like raising children!” he laughs. Initially, Gur was headhunted for his cutting-edge design, but over the decades this evolved into something far more comprehensive.
“I call myself a brand doctor,” he says, “because like a patient, each brand is individual. They have unique problems and strengths which I ‘diagnose’ before planning how to move forwards. I operate on a case-by-case basis.”
In this role as consultant, strategist, designer, cheerleader and more, Gur helps fashion businesses achieve their goals, whether that’s growing faster or sourcing the right textile partner for a new interiors line. Crucially, he sees problem-solving as requiring the same “creative thinking” as design. For Gur, it’s this transferrable skill that has been the key to his success.MARYLING store in Hong KongAvshalom Gur
Avshalom Gur On Shaping Global Fashion
Although Gur has done his fair share for heritage houses, his most interesting work is outside of Europe. One great example is MARYLING, an accessible luxury brand made in Milan but sold almost exclusively in APAC China. Gur came on board in 2010, back when the company was turning over a modest 150,000 euros annually. Gur recognized the potential, and under his leadership, the company embarked on a mission to develop a distinct brand DNA and then expand strategically across lifestyle.
Fifteen years later, MARYLING Group is a behemoth with a turnover of 500 million euros annually across womenswear, accessories, and MARYLING caffé chain. Since Gur joined the team, they have opened approximately one outlet a month, resulting in just under 300 standalone stores across Asia Pacific. It’s the kind of success most contemporary European brands wouldn’t dare dream of.MARYLING Caffè in Shenzhen Baoan airportAvshalom Gur
Another standout in his portfolio is Gur’s work with Turkish textile manufacturer, Kutnia. Kutnu is a heritage fabric blend that was ubiquitous during Ottoman rule, popularized by the weaving techniques developed in Gaziantep from the 16th century onwards. However, the craft was on the verge of dying out due to industrialization until a team came together in 2019 to revive it as a cultural preservation and social sustainability project. Gur was instrumental in developing supply chains, garnering international exposure through press and strategic partnerships, and developing the product itself, including launching its homewear in Bloomingdale’s.Kutnia 'kutno': Lustre & Sheen fabric rangeEkin Ozbicer
“I love working with great teams,” says Gur, “but you need to be able to adapt and interact when doing this kind of work. It’s important to understand the dynamic of an organization and get to the heart of the people running it.” His unique capacity for working within multiple cultures makes Gur one of the most interesting figures on the scene today; one who is able to shape global style by seeing beyond the industry’s inherent Eurocentrism. “I think these days you can’t just design with the Parisian socialite in mind. Any serious designer has to consider what the modern Chinese or Middle Eastern woman wants.”
Fashion is in a constant state of flux; it’s one of the qualities that defines it. “When I was starting out, everything was driven by finding new silhouettes; today it’s more about decoration and styling,” Avshalom Gur points out. But even in an industry this transient there are some things that will never change, and Gur’s rare combination of commercial nous and creative flair are guaranteed to be on trend, year after year.Fashion illustration by Avshalom Gur for 'Dreamweaver' exhibitionAvshalom Gur
