Chefs cook up camaraderie in the kitchen
But across India’s culinary landscape, the stereotype is fading. Kitchens are slowly turning into places of camaraderie, learning and support. While genuine friendships are forming, much of this shift is also driven by survival. Rising costs, staffing challenges and demanding diners have made chefs more willing to share knowledge rather than trademark secrets.
Collaboration keeps chefs inspired, sane and helps sustain their businesses. “If I want to figure out shoyu ramen, I call Kavan (of Naru Noodle Bar, Bengaluru). If I’m stuck with pizza dough, I call Alex (of Americano and Otra, Mumbai)," says chef Gresham Fernandes of Bandra Born, Mumbai. Prateek Sadhu, chef-owner of NAAR, in Kasauli, agrees. “People barely met earlier. Now we’re talking at 4am about life and food. But it’s not one big happy family," he says. “The friendships that exist are real, but not with everyone." Still, some bonds run deep. He calls Fernandes “the most talented chef of our generation," while Fernandes often turns to Sadhu for help with storytelling his dishes.
For Seefah Ketchaiyo, chef and co-owner of Seefah in Mumbai, these connections are lifelines. “Initially everything was unfamiliar, but once people saw my work ethic, they opened up." She also leans on a close bunch of chef friends like private chef Harsh Dixit, Divesh Aswani of Commis Station and Bhakti Mehta from Little Food Co.
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Chefs from Goa, Mumbai and Kolkata at Kopitiam Lah in Bengaluru.
There’s also a practical side to this tribe—a network of chefs helping chefs. Chef Regi Mathew of Kappa Chakka Kandhari and Chatti, NYC recalls how, during last year’s India’s Culinary Odyssey, a one-night only event featuring a menu created by ten chefs, he saw some of the chefs arriving in Chennai at 2am for, carrying their own utensils and working as a team. “There was no ego, no personal agenda, just a shared goal," he says.
Journalist Prasad Ramamurthy, co-curator of The Gathering, a weekend event held in February in Delhi, where nine chefs and nine artists created food and art together, recalls how restaurateur Riyaz Amlani opened the kitchen of Social, part of his Impresario group, so that chefs could prep. “They were just turning up, lending each other equipment and ingredients," he says. Viraf Patel, chef-owner of Across Mumbai, laughs about a night he ran out of chocolate. “One of the other chefs hopped on a bike and came back with chocolate in 15 minutes," he says.
For Lakhan Jethani of Mizu Izakaya in Mumbai, help often comes via quick calls. “If I’m unsure about an Indian ingredient, I call Hussain Shahzad of Hunger Inc. For Spanish, I call Manuel Olveira of La Loca Maria, Mumbai. His friends have shaped his path in other ways too. “For my first pop-up, Varun (Totlani) from Masque told me to go for a set menu in place of ala carte, which saved the whole experience." And when he noticed someone “getting too inspired" by his dishes, it was Hussain who advised him not to rant online, but see it as flattery, changing his outlook to the experience.
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Goa chefs Abhishek Deshmane, Rahul Gomes and Ralph Prazeres.
Beyond advice and support, this community is also changing how chefs do business – with pop-ups offering a way to collaborate, test new market and manage cost. “It lets you try new things without the risk of a full launch," says Seefah. Vinesh Johny, chef and co-founder of Lavonne Academy, Kopitiam Lah and LICK, Bengaluru, agrees. “It’s about experimenting, but also about staying connected with friends, who keep you grounded. Sometimes it’s just an excuse to hang out."
Mumbai-based restaurateur Gauri Devidayal also champions collaboration, creating space for chefs to work together through pop-ups at Magazine St. Kitchen, from chef Anuradha Medhora’s Malwa cuisine to chefs Taiyaba Ali and Aarohi Sanghavi teaming up. “It just makes sense, practically, creatively and from a business standpoint as well," she says.
Beyond practical help, chefs are approaching mentorship in more open, less hierarchical ways. “No matter how old you are, there’s always something new to learn," says Johny. “I’ve been baking for years, but another chef’s inputs might change how I balance flavours or layer textures." Sadhu echoes the thought. “I need a personal connection for any collaboration. The synergy matters, and it’s just as important that my team learns something and that we don’t lose money," he adds,hinting at his upcoming pop-up at NAAR with an old friend from his Noma days, who now runs Dewakan, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Kuala Lumpur.
Communities are thriving beyond the big cities too, especially in Goa, where chefs like Abhishek Deshmane of Slow Tide and Rahul Gomes of Jamun, Ping’s and Saz talk of a growing culinary family built on trust and shared passion. “Goa’s always been susegad," says Gomes, “but now there’s a buzz. Chefs who love what they do, love that they get to do it together." They catch up over beers, trade sourcing tips and visit each other’s restaurants. “It’s just nice to have people around who get it, who’ve been in the weeds too, and are still smiling," Gomes adds. For Deshmane, chefs like Bawmra Jap (Bomra’s) and Jyoti Singh (Second House) make the community special. “It’s not about competition," he says. “It’s about showing up, tasting each other’s foo and knowing there’s always a table waiting. But more than anything, it’s comforting to have someone who understands the long hours, the pressure, the passion."
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Restaurateurs Gauri Devidayal and Riyaaz Amlani.
The spirit shows even in how chefs recommend one another’s restaurants. “It’s no longer about pushing only our own places," says Patel. “If someone asks me where to eat, I’ll send them to the best spots, whether or not they’re mine."
They agree these bonds spark exciting ideas as well. Niyati Rao, chef and co-owner of Ekaa and Bombay Daak in Mumbai, says friendships are more than emotional support; they’re creative fuel. “Talking to another chef can unlock a forgotten memory or change how I look at an ingredient," she says. “Those interactions shape how I plate, season, or tell a story through food."
All of this—the calls, the borrowed kitchens, pop-ups and mentorships—points to one thing. Chefs might still chase perfection like artists, but they’re no longer doing it alone. “We want conversations that leave us better people," says Fernandes. While Sadhu maintains, “Chefs are weird creatures. Some of our best friendships are forged over late-night conversations, service breakdowns and shared frustrations. But at the end of the day, we understand each other in a way few people do."
The myth of the mad genius chef might still exist. But, these days, they’re far more likely to pick up the phone and ask a friend for help.
Jyoti Kumari is a Pune-based lifestyle and travel writer.
