Mouthing Off | Stop trying to elevate my food. It doesn’t need it
Kowloon City is back in vogue. With Hong Kong’s new Kai Tak arena within walking distance – OK, it is a long walk – and last year’s popular film Twilight Of The Warriors: Walled In romanticising the area’s legendary former slum, you might say the old district is new again.I live near Kowloon City, and what I go there for is Thai food. There is a cluster of authentic Thai restaurants and shops, operated by a vibrant community that has made the neighbourhood its own.South Wall Road is essentially Little Bangkok now. At weekends the basement bars blast Thai pop music till late. Every Songkran festival, in April, there is a celebratory parade to mark the traditional start of the Thai new year, although Hong Kong officials have included the festival’s water fights in the outdoor park up the road.Best of all, an amazing plate of pad Thai or basil beef rice lunch only costs about HK$50 (US$6.50). Afterwards, I can shop for Southeast Asian spices and ingredients, and even take home a mango sticky rice dessert as good as any from Bangkok’s Chatuchak Weekend Market.Participants spray water during the Songkran festival at South Wall Road in Kowloon City in 2025. South Wall Road is essentially Little Bangkok now. Photo: May TseThis is why I am never all that enthusiastic when my Central-dwelling friends on Hong Kong Island suggest getting Thai in their neighbourhood. Sometimes I will make an alternative proposal for them to come over to my neck of the woods. Usually, there will be some hesitancy and excuses, like, “Oh, I’m not sure how to take the MTR there.”Alas, it is hard to convince certain Hongkongers to trek over to deep, dark Kowloon. Worse, when they Google search the places I suggest, the restaurants look like dives. The pictures have bad lighting, minimal decor and no-frills food presentation.
