A US chain’s plan to sell its version of Mexican food to Mexicans with a first branch south of the border has prompted bemusement, skepticism and anger among local people.
Chipotle Mexican Grill, known for its customisable burritos, tacos and bowls, has more than 4,000 locations worldwide and announced on Tuesday that it was expanding into Mexico in what it described as a significant milestone.
The first restaurant will open on Thursday in the upmarket neighbourhood of San Pedro Garza García in the city of Monterrey in the northern state of Nuevo León.
Many social media users expressed excitement at the prospect of Chipotle’s arrival in Mexico, but others were less than impressed.
“Bold move selling Mexico a corporate version of Mexico,” wrote one user on X.
“Next up, Panda Express opening its first mainland China location,” wrote another, referring to the US Chinese fast-food chain.
“Let’s support what’s local,” wrote one user on Instagram. “The earnings of Chipotle will go to the USA, they won’t stay in Mexico. On the other hand, if you buy from a local neighbourhood fonda the money goes toward local taxes and generates further economic impact for a circular economy.”
“It’s like the dog teaching a duck to fly!” another said.
“Yummi mexican food made by gringos … said no one ever!” wrote one user on Facebook.
Some predicted that Chipotle would suffer the same fate as other US fast-food chains that have failed to make it in the countries that inspired their cuisine. Taco Bell has twice tried to launch in Mexico, but closed all of its restaurants there in 2010.
It opened its first restaurant in Monterrey in 2007, complete with french fries on the menu. Marco Fragoso, a local office worker, told the Associated Press at the time: “They’re not tacos. They’re folded tostadas. They’re very ugly.”
The philosopher and journalist Carlos Monsívais described Taco Bell’s attempt to expand into Mexico as “like bringing ice to the Arctic”.
Starbucks has been somewhat more successful in Italy, launching its first outlet in a former post office in 2018. Domino’s Pizza, however, crashed out of Italy after seven years in 2022, when its local franchise filed for bankruptcy and closed all of its 29 restaurants.
Inés Carrasco, who writes the blog Cronicas de San Pedro, said Chipotle might appeal to people who embrace Tex-Mex food because of the city’s proximity to the US, but that history did not bode well for it.
“US franchises don’t succeed in Monterrey,” Carraso said. “Just because one opens doesn’t mean it will do well – Jack in the Box and who knows how many others have flopped in Nuevo León. Some never even made it to Mexico City because they couldn’t cut it in Nuevo León.”
Chipotle’s management, however, said it was confident the chain would find a market south of the border.
“We are entering Mexico with deep respect for the country’s culinary heritage and a commitment to delivering the Chipotle experience with excellence,” its chief executive, Scott Boatwright, said in a statement.
Its chief business development officer, Nate Lawson, said: “This first location will serve as an important proof-of-concept, giving us the opportunity to better understand local consumer preferences as we thoughtfully grow in Mexico.”
Working in partnership with the Mexican restaurant operator Alsea, Chipotle intends to opening more restaurants in Nuevo León and expand into Mexico City next year.
“We had been pursuing Chipotle for at least five or six years,” Alsea’s chief executive, Christian Guirría, told the local news outlet Expansión. “I don’t know if we wore them down or won them over, but ultimately, we were very fortunate to secure the franchise for Mexico.”
As well as the US, the company already has restaurants in Canada, the UK, France and Germany. It is also planning to enter the Asian market, with restaurants scheduled to open in South Korea this year and Singapore early next year.
