Buying Guide – Five of the Finest New Independent Watchmakers We’ve Recently Come Across

If you’re anything like us, independent watchmaking will be on your watch radar pretty much all the time. We’ve never hidden the fact that we absolutely love the creative, experimental nature of small, indie watchmakers. Some have grown into industry leaders, while others have deliberately stayed small and produce watches in double- or even single-digit numbers per year. Over the past couple of years, there has also been a notable surge of interest from the watch collecting community in this small but intriguing corner of the craft, with many breakout brands selling out like hotcakes. That seemed to have slowed down a touch, but there’s still plenty of beguiling new watches to be found! 

L’Atelier Bernard The Owl

The story of Bernard van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz is fascinating, to say the least. Having found common ground in watchmaking after pursuing their studies and careers separately, the two joined forces to create l’Atelier Bernard. The men’s first watch, The Owl, is a stunning handmade watch with a reworked Duplex escapement, a system mostly used in 18th- and 19th-century pocket watches. The three-dimensional guilloché decor on the barrels is a genuine work of art, and the rest of the finishing doesn’t let it down one bit either. Only six pieces will be made, which have already been allocated, despite the price of CHF 150,000. Check out our in-depth story and interview here.

For more information, please visit L’Atelier Bernard’s Instagram account.

Cleguer Inspiration One

A debut watch is quite an undertaking in itself for any watchmaker, but starting off with an entirely new escapement geometry sounds next-level complex to say the least. Yet, that’s exactly what Mathieu Cleguer has done with his Cleguer Inspiration One. The Inspiration One uses an “Innate” dual escape wheel escapement, inspired by Fasoldt’s concept and natural escapements. It’s put in the spotlight on the front of the watch, where it’s met with an off-centre hour and minute dial, a central seconds hand and a partially exposed barrel with power reserve indication. And from what we’ve come to see, the finishing is beyond words, really! The inaugural run of 12 titanium pieces is sold out, but there will be 80 made in total, priced at CHF 95,300 for future models.

For more information, please visit Cleguer.com.

Mermont La Parfaite

While plenty of watches dazzle with mechanical wizardry, the La Parfaite by Mermont walks a different path. Stripping things back to the essentials, the La Parfaite indicates time with only one hand, set over a colimaçon (snailing) brushed dial in rich Zapon blue varnish. The Breguet numerals are paired with a subtle, ‘swept’ minute track, and at the heart of it all is one of the most elaborately constructed and finished hands we’ve ever seen. The three-dimensional shape is remarkable, and it’s entirely made and finished by hand. It uses a La Joux-Perret D101 manually wound movement, which is part of why this watch is priced at CHF 10,998 despite its platinum case.

For more information, please visit Mermont.ch.

Niton Prima

The Prima marked the return of a historic watchmaking name, Niton, a once-famed jumping hour specialist now revived by entrepreneurs Yvan Ketterer and Leopoldo Celi. Taking one of the brand’s most well-known designs, the Prima is a rectangular dress watch with a twist. Time is split between running seconds, central minutes and a jumping hour display, viewed through a sculpted window. It looks deceptively simple yet is full of charming touches and, of course, a rather handsome movement. The calibre NHS01 is actually shaped to follow the lines of the case, which is always a bonus in non-round cases! Launched as 2 limited editions of 19 pieces in rose gold or platinum, the Niton Prima starts at CHF 44,740.

For more information, please visit Niton.swiss.

Stéphane Pierre L’Imprétant

Although we have not seen the L’Imprétant in person, it made quite an impression when we first heard about it. Created by indie watchmaker Stéphane Pierre, its main attraction is the dual retrograde display for the hours and minutes. Seemingly crossing swords, the two hands follow an arched track, each at their own speed, of course. In the bottom half, the large balance wheel is held in place by a beautifully shaped polished bridge. The backside of the watch isn’t too shabby either, with a seconds indication as well as a power reserve display. The L’Imprétant is launched as a 15-piece subscription watch in zirconium and rose gold, followed by a 50-piece run in titanium (seen here). The price is CHF 84,000 before taxes.

For more information, please visit StephanePierre.com.

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