Belly Review | “The French Bistro Serving Filipino Flavour Bombs”

They just have everything downBelly in Kentish Town has been on our hit list for a while, though with a menu that’s so eclectic, we were always a little worried that the dishes might fall into the trap of one ingredient too many. They don’t. The neighbourhood spot bills itself as a French bistro serving Filipino dishes, with excellent wines to boot, and we’ll be honest, it was faultless. They’ve got the hustle, food, drinks and vibes down to a T.Eat ThisThis might just be the finest example of all killer, no filler when it comes to a restaurant menu. We kicked off with the smoked trout kinilaw, the Filipino version of ceviche, which tends to be marinated in vinegar and spices rather than citrus. This was bright and acidic and, thanks to the coconut milk, had a nice creamy finish. If the tempura cod pandesal hasn’t been 86’d for the day (they sell out fast) be sure to grab one. It’s a ridiculous take on a Maccy D’s Filet-O-Fish, only better, with ikura tartare.The woodland mushroom arroz caldo comes in two sizes and is a hearty dish, with meaty mushrooms and egg yolk giving it a rich, creamy texture. We then had the fish of the day, served tinapa-style with sauce Américaine, tomato, strawberry XO and calamansi vinegar. We were nervous it might be a case of too much going on, but it was a beautiful piece of fish in an incredible sauce. The Pink Fir potatoes with kombu sauce were the perfect side and, for dessert, do not miss the frozen custard profiterole served with a jug of fish sauce caramel. It’s up there with the best desserts we’ve ever eaten.Drink ThisCocktails follow a similar theme to the food, with classic drinks given a Filipino spin. The Thai Basil and Lemongrass Gimlet contains patis fish sauce, which gives it a nice umami hit. There are also some excellent non-alcoholic options; we loved the Snake Fruit Spritz. The wines are low-intervention and all from family-owned vineyards. We had a sparkling Chenin Blanc followed by a very nice chilled Lebanese red, Hey Kanz.Why GoIt’s a pretty unique offering, and fusion is clearly having a moment. They’ve got the hustle down too. It was vibey and packed on a Saturday afternoon, but service had that very American feel; slick, efficient, turning tables and taking walk-ins with ease. Big energy, beautiful space, and seriously f**king delicious.Key InformationAddress | 157 Kentish Town Road, NW1 8PDFor more information | bellylondon.com
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